It’s time, its tater planting time here in South Georgia. Our soil has finally dried up enough to plant potatoes. We’re about 10 days past our perfect ideal planting date, which is the 14th of February here We are the 24th of February, but still Plenty within that good window there when we need to get our potatoes planted. We’ve got some rain coming this Afternoon and the next few days, so it’s not going to get any drier around here So we need to get these things in the ground today. We’ve got our two plots here We’re going to plant potatoes in the smaller plot here Which is about 20 by 30 foot long and that longer plot over there Which is 20 foot wide by about 60 foot long. We take a look here at our soil We can see Still a little moist there in some spots, but it’s dry enough to get these potatoes in the ground There’s some of that mustard from, had that other crop there. So as dry as it’s gonna get for the next week or so We go look at this other plot here where we had that cover crop cocktail We can see that all that is broken down pretty good. Everything got chopped up nicely. Still got a few spots in here that look a little damp But like I said, this is as dry as it’s going to get the next week or so So we need to go ahead and get these puppies in the ground. You can still see a few of those little Radishes right there that are still being broken down and even though it’s supposed to rain. Hey tiger, you ready to plant potatoes? Even though it’s supposed to rain our potatoes have been healing and suberizing for over a week now. So the skins are nice and tough on them. So we shouldn’t have to worry about anything as far as them rotting in the soil Even if we do get some heavy rains in the next few days should be just fine Cuz we had plenty of time to let them heal over while we were waiting on the soil to dry. Now I’ve already got my stakes out here marked off where my rows are gonna be. I like to plant my potatoes in rows three foot apart. You can go further than that. You can go four feet apart or five Whatever you want to do I wouldn’t go closer than three because problem you have there is you don’t have a whole lot of dirt to use to hill them. So three-foot as close as I like to go. So I’ve got my steaks laid out here for three-foot rows. And what I do here is I put me a mark in the soil At the beginning of one row and then I’ll drive down there to that steak and Then there’s a mark down there and we’ll drive to this steak so I don’t put a steak at the at both ends of every row just a mark at one end and a steak at the other end that I can use my double wheel hoe and just drive to that steak and get a relatively straight line now this plot here is about 60 foot long, which is about The maximum I can do a straight row without using a string these may get a little wobbly But it’ll be just fine. They always say you can fit more taters more plants in a crooked row. So if we get a little crooked it won’t be a big deal. So now all we need to do is go grab our double wheel hoe with the plow set attachment on it and Bust out a furrow to put these potatoes in so I’ve got my double wheel hoe here with the plows in the furrowing position and Now this wheel hoe here has got some miles on it But still performing just as good as it did when it was all shiny and new these things here built to last a lifetime. Anyway, so our plow set here we have a left and a right plow the left plow always throws soil To the left the right plow always throws soil to the right So when you want to put them in the furrowing position to make a furrow or a trench Your left plow if you’re standing behind the wheel hoe the left plow is going to go on the left side of the toolbar The right plow is going to go on the right side of the toolbar You could also do this with our high arch wheel hoe We’ll show it in a little bit when we’re actually covering the potatoes but here on the double wheel hoe this is what it looks like and that’s just going to Split the soil. Push it out both ways making a nice little furrow or trench to put our potatoes in. Alright, alright, alright, we got those furrows made and now it’s time to get some spuds in the ground We’re going to be planting about five hundred row feet of potatoes. We’ve got six 60-foot rows in that big plot and then five About 30 foot rows in that smaller plot. So there’s our furrows three feet apart. Now those ain’t the most perfectly straight rows you’ve ever seen but they’re straight enough Just makes it a little quicker doing it that way as opposed to using the string. So for the sake of time We just drive to that steak and then we’ve got our smaller plot over here Where we’ve got five rows in here still got those beets right there. I’ll be pulling those pretty soon I can use that soil where those are To hill this row right here. We have a lot of people who ask how deep a furrow that plow set on The wheel hoe makes and it’s going to depend on your soil type a good bit. If you have sandier soils, they’re a little More loose it’s going to make a deeper furrow This soil here is is sandy but it’s also got a decent bit of clay in there pretty heavy soil and I’ll show you here Get that back like it was. It’s going to make about four Four and a half inch furrow in the soil, which is plenty deep enough to plant potatoes. So we’re going to start off with this Kennebec white potato And I was originally going to plant just two rows of these but I had a lot of people in the comments saying that this is their Go-to potato that they really like it And since I got six rows in this plot where I originally only thought I was going to get five. I’m going to plant Three rows of these guys because I think I’m really going to like them now you’ll see some people when they’re planting potatoes They’ll just kind of throw them down in the soil like that right there Which is okay. I like to press mine down and get them snug in there And the reason I like to do that is so when I come behind here with the plow set on the wheel hoe to cover this up it doesn’t flip these potatoes over we always want that skin side Facing down we want the eyes Facing up so they have the path of least resistance To come up through that soil there. So I like to kind of press mine down in there. So they stay in the same position even when that wheel hoe and plow set comes over here and Covers them up And then as far as spacing goes You’ll see some people who like to plant them a foot or more apart if you know me I’d like to kind of test the limits of how close I can plant things. So I like to plant mine about six to eight inches apart. So I’ll stack them in here pretty thick along this row. Alright, three rows of Kennebec in the ground now to the Yukon Gold and the Red Norland I’m gonna plant two rows of these Yukon Golds and just one row of this Red Norland. I like the red potatoes Everybody seems to like them. That’s what most people Grow the most of they’re not my favorite Compared to the Yukons or some of the other varieties, so I’m just going to grow one row of these. And now to the smaller plot here We’re going to plant some of these fingerling potatoes the Austrian Crescent the French fingerling and this adirondack blue potato rows in here only 30 feet long so half as long is that other plot now some of these Here see if I can find one are cut on both ends. So We can put them down that way or we can put them down this way We might even lay them this way and just make sure those eyes are facing upwards towards the soil. So we’ve got those spuds stuck in the ground there we got three rows of Kennebec two rows of Yukon Gold and then one row of Red Norlands over here and Then the smaller plot we got a row of Adirondack blue two rows of French fingerling and two rows of Austrian Crescent and just to give you an idea of how many potatoes I used how many pounds for these smaller fingerling potatoes I used a 10 pound bag cut up and that covered two 30-foot rows So 60 feet of row feet per 10 pounds of potatoes cut up with these smaller ones and then over here Use the Kennebec’s as an example I cut up 25 pounds of Kennebec’s and I was able to plant a hundred and 80-row feet three 60-foot rows there. So 25 pounds the bigger potatoes cut up covered 180-row feet for me now if you put them a little further apart a foot or so apart You might get them to stretch longer than that, but the way I was spacing them 180 row feet per 25 pounds. So now all we got to do is take our wheel hoe and zip these babies up Close that furrow throw some dirt on those potatoes and we’ll be good to go. Let me show you what that looks like So to cover these potatoes we’re going to use our high arch wheel hoe here and you could easily use That double wheel hoe that we used to create the furrow and just turn the plows around But I already had this one set up in the hilling position and I wanted to show you you know Both models you can use either one for this potato planting technique the high arch does have a little more versatility as far as How you can set up the plows how wide you can set them Let me fold it back this way and I can show you. So right here You have the wheel and the toolbar attached actually have two separate toolbars, and you can bring these Toolbars in closer, they’re on their outermost position now, but you can bring them in closer There’s about a three to four inch range there. So you have a little bit more flexibility here as far as how you can position those plows So when I’m standing behind the wheel hoe like I am now and I want the plows to be in the hilling position I’m going to have my Left plow, which is always going to throw dirt to the left on the right side I’m going to have my right plow, which is always going to throw dirt to the right on the left side. So let’s take this puppy right here and close up them furrows and we’ll be good to go. Alright, alright, alright, we got them zipped up you can see potatoes are snug as a bug in a rug. I’ve got about 360 row feet here and Those look real good there. About a 150-row feet here. Now I’ve had a lot of people ask why don’t you use drip irrigation on your potatoes or can you use drip irrigation on your potatoes? Yes, you can I don’t I’m a little bit prone to overwater and the one time I did use it on potatoes I just kept it too wet and a lot of them rotted. So I’m a little too trigger-happy to be using drip on Potatoes but you can do it. Let me show you how you need to do it if you’re going to use drip on potatoes. So if you’re going to use drip tape on potatoes, I wouldn’t recommend putting it down Burying it right when you put those seed pieces down because the seed pieces aren’t going to need a lot of water till they start emerging from the soil and Establishing some roots. So what I would recommend doing is Once those things sprout out of the ground then lay your drip tape right beside those plants and Then it will be covered up on your first hilling that you do with those plants. So wait to the plants emerge from the soil, lay your drip tape beside them, and then cover it with that first hilling another question we get a lot is Should I put some fertilizer down before I plant my potatoes and it’s not a bad idea at all a lot of people will put some 10-10-10 Or any other kind of balanced fertilizer down before they plant their potatoes and that’s a pretty good idea. I do it a little bit differently. So what I like to do is, I don’t put any fertilizer down pre-plant, but once my potatoes start emerging from the soil I’ll come in there and put some of my chicken manure compost Between the rows and then when I hill those plants it kind of gets pushed up around them and it feeds them really good So that’s the way I do it you definitely want to fertilize potatoes a couple of times throughout the lifespan. You know early and then it’s a good idea to do it kind of around each hilling event So you can use some granular fertilizer that works good I’m gonna use my chicken manure compost and feed them that way if you have any other questions about planting potatoes Put those in the comments below and I’ll be glad to try to answer them for you. If you have a different way of Planting potatoes let me know about that. I’m always willing to try new things If you haven’t already go ahead and hit that like button and that thumbs up button Also, if you haven’t subscribed already do that hit that subscribe button and that bell button down below. So you get notified every time we come out with a new video and if you enjoyed this video Go take a look at this one right here. I think you’ll really enjoy it as well. We’ll see you guys next time.


  1. My rows are always crooked I order them from Sears and I order them to long and have to bend some to get them in the garden

  2. My back hurts just thinking about digging all of those…. but the one good thing is that they wont all come in at once

  3. Got my tater's in the ground this past weekend as well, ain't no way I could plant as many as you did Trav, my lower back would be screamin' come harvest time, LOL!

  4. Git It On!
    We're behind up here in The Ohio River Valley.
    Just pullin' seed 'taters outa cold storage and starting to warm them up, sort, and chit (yeah – I do that).

    For the first earlies we target St. Pat's day through April Fool's day.
    Ground's frozen solid at the moment.

  5. hey travis ,mr greg hope you guys are doing well ,i haven,t been able to get mine in the ground yet, maybe by the weekend, great video i be seeing you guys again soon!

  6. Travis, do you test your potato plots for Magnesium Deficiency before planting ? You covered the potatoes but never tamped down the soil for better contact, so this not needed for better soil contact ? Thanks for the info and video.

  7. Hey Travis & Greg! Did I miss my window for planting tater here in Tampa? I was going to try some in my 20 & 30 gallon pots.

  8. I grew a nice crop of King Edwards this year – they’re nearly ready. I didn’t hill them up at all really and I see I’ve lost a few due to light exposure. Big mistake! Oh well, I’ll watch and see how you do it Travis. Nice video!

  9. Travis, when your potatoes rotted how did you handle that? What did you plant in that space after the rot? Was it a common vegetable rot?

  10. Planted my red taters yesterday. We’re up in Decatur. Heavy soil in my garden and it was still too wet to till but the push plow cut a furrow so we’ll take it.

  11. I grew up in Germany….using your harvesting bucket around the shoulders, just drop the seed potato at the distance you want it and step on it! That is how we did it. Here in the US I have raised beds, so the method is a little different.

  12. Can you tell us how we can tell which potatoes are determinate and which are indeterminate potatoes? I didn't know that there was a difference between potatoes until this year and I have been gardening for years. If they are determinate they do not have to be hilled very high and there is less work involved.

  13. Good info… I have never had experience growing potatoes! Kind of makes me nervous. Maybe next year if I get a pre-order in! 😊

  14. Still too early here, and too wet…. but enjoyed the video. We have better harvest using the red skin potatoes or the Yukon gold, than a white potato… but we use what works for us…God Bress

  15. My shoulders ache just watching you use the push hoe. 27 years of holding the steering wheels of bucking John Deeres and pulling the power lift levers millions, yes I figured it out, millions of times wore them out. That is not counting a month of ditch cleaning with a backhoe each year and digging thousands of stumps.

    All this was on a potato farm. I spent six weeks every years planting 300 acres of them in north Florida. Farmers here plant the reds close together ( 3 to 4) inches because small potatoes bring more money.

    We put things up on high rows to keep the seed out of the mud if it rains hard. I used my 1971 3020 to work up my garden. The tires are 80 inched apart so I have 40 inch rows.

  16. I live in Southern Ohio. I have always made a small hill and put the seed potatoes in. I tried the way you showed last year and alot didn't come up. The soil is clay here. God love the clay! I've been gardening for years. Because of you tube I've been learning many ways.. So I'll see what this year brings just for fun as I try different ways.

  17. Been planting potatoes close to 50 years. Due to limited space I plant my rows 30” apart with the rows 25’ long. Also due to the amount of labor in hilling and a bad back I do not hill. Instead, I mulch with 4”-6”of straw. Before mulching I take a 50’ soaker hose run it down one side of a row 1 and loop the remaining hose to one side of row 2. I then repeat this on the other side of row 1 and then to the other side of row 2. This allows for even watering. The rows are close enough when the plants are fully grown their canopy completely shades the row, which has a double benefit of conserving moisture and helping to shade out weeds.

  18. We order are potatoes from you this year, they look really good, planted about a week and half ago,same problem to much rain, hoping they will be alright with this rain here in South Mississippi . I think old man down the street is building some kind of wooden boat lol.

  19. Ordered a double wheel hoe with plows and a 12 inch oscillating hoe today. Can’t wait to get it. Gonna get the seeder in a couple weeks.

  20. I've planted my spuds as close as 4in apart …. when a commercial plant is putting em in the ground it don't know which way the eyes face … we did 50 acres back in the nineties . We lost a goob of money because of nafta .. goal now is one acre

  21. I just knew from you wearing those sunglasses all the time that you were a crooked guy!!!

    I end up running string lines for my taters cause my rows are 800’ long and I cannot stand crooked rows.

    I’m impressed with your rows tho buddy, they aren’t exactly perfect but even with me being stupid crazy about rows being straight your rows would pass in my field. You did good free running that hoss plow, if it does that good running a straight row then I may order one next week, been wanting one anyways.

    I will be planting my taters next weeken in NC. They are being delivered this week and then I’ve got to cut 150lbs and give em a few days to dry and then get em in the ground. I would have liked to already had them in but it’s been way too wet. Ran the tractor and tiller thru the back field 2 days ago and turned the sand up so it could dry a bit faster and she’s doing alright but we’ve got a 70% chance of rain Tuesday again so I’m trying to work the field and rows up now so we can still plant even if it’s too wet. I will have the furrows already made tomorrow and if it’s wet when I plant, I can drop taters in the furrow and kick an inch or two of sand on top then come back once its dry and finish covering. That’s my plan and I’m sticking to it buddy! I’d rather do that then get thrown another couple weeks behind again.

    Great video brother!! If you ever make it thru NC, stop by the farm for an hour or two and I’ll show you how your stuff performs in the fields of NC.

    Take care and be safe!!

  22. My thoughts on drip on taters is that we usually plant them early in the season and we usually have plenty of rain up to the point they start dying back so I don’t use drip either cause I’ve had to many rot issues in past years when we did irrigate.

  23. I too cut my potato's in half but I don't dig the soil, I just push them in to the top of the soil then mulch them with hay or what ever I have to hand, the soil is fed with seaweed placed on top the ground in autumn.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *